PLUG AND SAWDUST SPAWN INFORMATION:
(for grow bag info, scroll down)
Suitable wood species: White Oak, Red Oak, Sweetgum, Ironwood, Maple, Tulip Poplar, River Birch, Cherry, Black Gum, Honey Locust, Black Walnut (lions mane only). In general, oak is THE best. NO black locust, apple, cedar, osage orange, OR PINE species . Hemlock will work for reishi and possibly shiitake, provided that it is fresh and free of rot. We highly recommend running all oysters on softer hardwoods like tulip poplar, and saving your oak for other species.
LOG CUTTING AND CURING: Logs must be cut from living healthy trees. NO ROT AT ALL! Old rotting trees, standing dead trees, last years firewood, etc. is a WASTE OF TIME! At least ½ inch of sapwood. One inch is ideal! The most current information is that the logs do not need a rest period before knocking up with spawn. Your window of time for inoculation is 0 to two months, from the date that the tree was felled. We recommend knocking up at two to three weeks for best results. Two months is pushing it, but it will work if the logs have not been allowed to dry out. Best time of the year to cut is winter into spring when the trees are completely dormant. However, you can inoculate at any time during the winter months, especially if you have an unheated space like a basement or garage to store the logs during the coldest months. This will give the spawn a jump start and you will ultimately get mushrooms sooner. Cutting in the summer is not recommended but is still possible with oak species. Keep the bark undamaged and as intact as possible. Keep the logs clean and off the ground by stacking on a crate or scraps of wood.
Soak your logs for 12-24 hours BEFORE plugging with spawn, but allow the bark to dry out before you plug them. This means starting the soak two days before you are going to plug them. Note: if the logs are less than a ten days old, soaking is not necessary.
Drill holes starting two inches from the end of the log and spacing approximately six inches apart (see photos below). Make the rows of holes three to four inches apart along the girth of each log. For example, a four inch diameter log will have three or four rows of holes in a line , with each hole in the line six inches apart. Use 5//16 inch bit for plugs spawn and 7/16 inch bit for sawdust spawn using an inoculation tool. Drill the holes 1 1/4 inch deep for plugs and ½ inch deep for sawdust spawn. You can use a drill stop or simply paint or electrical tape to mark the depth on the drill bit. Wax over with bees, cheese or soy wax immediately after plugging. Also wax over the ends of the logs, anywhere the bark was nicked or damaged, and anywhere that branches were cut off of the log. Chris-cross stack in full shade during the colonization period. Keep your logs in full shade in a place with access to water. Keep your logs outside in the elements and do not cover them. Let the rain fall on them…
DO NOT ALLOW THE LOGS TO DRY OUT! However, it is not necessary to soak the logs during the colonization period, unless it is exceedingly dry. If necessary, a deep soaking is best. This means 12-24 hours of rain, sprinkler, soaker hose or roll them into a stream, pond, kiddie pool, barrel, bath tub, watering trough, etc. Note: The chlorine in municipal water will not hurt the logs. Make sure the bark dries out between soakings. Remember, fewer deeper soakings are best. DO NOT SOAK THE LOGS FOR LONGER THAN 24 HOURS!
SPAWN RUN: Takes anywhere from four months to two years, depending on mushroom and wood species. Ex. Oyster on poplar- four-six months. Shiitake on White oak -12 months. Maiatake on Oak stump- two years. Be patient….keep your logs hydrated and they will eventually make mushrooms. Look for the ends of the logs to turn white with mycelium after a soaking rain as a sign that the spawn run is nearly complete. At this point, you can force your logs to fruit by soaking them for 24 hrs
Special conditions for certain species.
1. All oysters, shiitake: The easiest to fruit species….can be fruited above ground stacked in a pile or leaning against a fence or tree. Soak, stack, harvest. Soak, Stack, Harvest. Keep in mind that the more often you force your logs to fruit the shorter their life expectancy is. We recommend an 4-6 week resting period between forced fruitings. Shiitake logs require vibrating to initiate a good flush. Beat the ends with a baseball bat or rock after soaking, but avoid damaging the bark.
2. Reishi, Lion’s Mane, More of a challenge to fruit….Half bury the logs either horizontally or vertically once the spawn run is nearly complete. You can bury short sections in planters with potting soil. This is especially effective for Reishi. Reishi can also be fruited directly on the ground, without burying.
3. Maiatake, Sulpher Shelf. The most challenging to fruit. Try inoculating stumps at or near the base or logs buried in the ground. These species can take several years to fruit from stumps or logs and are not nearly as reliable fruiters as the above mentioned ones.
Special notes: Providing shade. North side of house (but not under the eaves, as it needs the rain) is excellent during the winter. A simple piece of 80 percent shade cloth draped over the logs works well. Or under the cover of bushes, evergreen trees, etc.
The logs will get lighter in weight over time as the fungus eats the lignin and cellulose and converts it into mushrooms. Eventually they will fall apart and be recycled into the earth. A six inch white oak log inoculated with shiitake will produce for five to six years. You can expect roughly a year of production per inch of diameter of log for oak, less for softer hardwoods like poplar.
Fruiting Bag Instructions
1.
Basics:
REMEMBER. The bag contains a living organism. It will die if you neglect it. Fungi need
high humidity
,
light
and
fresh air
.
Light
quality is important and most commonly overlooked; natural light thru a window is best, indirect but bright. Other sources include florescent or LED light. The brighter the better. High humidity is essential for pin formation and development. We provide you with a piece of woven fabric called
reemay
which should be moistened and draped over your open mushroom bag at all times. Keep the reemay misted with a
fine mist sprayer
or soak it in water three or four times a day minimum. Fresh air allows for normal development of most mushrooms. By cutting the bag open or off, you are providing the spawn with plenty of fresh air to grow.
2. Storing your bag : Store your bag at room temperature until you are ready to open it. If you want to keep your bag in storage for long periods, refrigeration is best. In general, the warmer it is the faster development occurs.
3. Fruiting your bag : When the bag is fully colonized, (completely covered in fungus), it will begin to form primordia or “pins” which are essentially baby mushrooms. At this point, either refrigerate the bag or let it fruit. Before you fruit your bag be sure that you have a fine mist sprayer . We suggest fruiting your block somewhere that you frequent often, like the kitchen or in the most humid part of the house. Bathrooms and laundry rooms are excellent!! You can set the bag on a dinner plate or in a shallow tupper ware. Just remember that it needs light. Fruiting temperatures between 50 and 75 are ideal for most species. Depending on temp and humidity, outside might be better than inside. For instance if it is cool and misty or rainy, stick the block outside on a covered porch or window sill. If it is hot and sunny or below freezing, bring it in. The higher the humidity the better . Once you cut the bag open, no turning back!! Using a terrarium : You can increase humidity by placing the bag in an UNCOVERED or Half Covered plastic storage tub containing a up to six inches of moistened perlite or potting soil. Perlite is the best. Note: do not completely cover the tub with the lid. Remember the fungus needs fresh air. Always keep the block draped in the reemay fabric and keep the reemay moist.
Follow the directions for each species below.
a. Reishi - In high co2, the reishi will form “antlers” right in the closed bag. These antlers are considered highly medicinal and are quite valuable. You can let the antler form grow in the bag as long as you like. When you do cut the bag open and fresh air enters, the form will change to the typical shelf fungus form. To harvest the antler, cut a 1 -2 inch slit in the top of the bag, slip the antler through the slit, and cut it off. Then pull the top of the bag to one side and tape it tightly down, keeping the slit exposed. Another reishi will grow out of the slit. For highest yield, Reishi can also be fruited out of the side of the bag by making two, one inch slits anywhere along the side wall of the bag on any side. Always roll and tape the plenum down when you cut slits in the bag (see photo below).
b. Shiitake- IMPORTANT! Shiitake must “brown” and “bark” INSIDE the bag! Do not open the bag until it is entirely brown. In addition the surface of the block will take on a roughened texture, called “popcorning” or “barking”. This process can take up to three months from spawning date! Once this has occurred, spank the bag! Give it ten good spanks with your hand. NO JOKE! This triggers fruiting! Next, cut off the entire bag, rinse well with cold tap water and wrap with reemay. KEEP MISTED and get ready. Shiitake fruits madly.
c. King Oyster and Black Poplar : These species benefit from the application of a casing layer . Once fully colonized, cut the top of the bag off completely, leaving about three inches of bag wall intact. Next, place a 1/2 inch layer of ordinary potting soil over the surface of the block. Keep the potting soil misted. The mushrooms will erupt thru the soil.
d. All Other Oysters, Including Elm : Require a lot of fresh air and bright light to produce normal fruits. Make up to six one inch slits, (three on each side) equal distances apart on the side wall of the bag. Then roll the top of the bag into a tube and tape it tightly and securely to the block. Make sure the rolled portion of the bag does not cover the slits. Clusters of "oysters" will grow out of the slits. Harvest and you will get more oysters out of the same slits. KEEP IT MOIST ! Oysters love water!
e. Lions Mane : Make two 1 inch slits anywhere along the bag where thick white fungus is prominent and the fruits will grow out of the slits. Don't forget to roll down the top of the bag into a tube and tape it securely (see photos below for how to roll the bag). Be sure to drape the reemay over the bag so it keeps the developing fruits moist. But watch out for the fruits growing THRU the reemay.
5. Harvesting: Gently grasp and twist the mature fruits off of the block. Try not to damage the block in the process. DO NOT CUT INTO THE BLOCK! COOK until Golden brown!! You derive little to no nutritional or medicinal value from fungi unless they are thoroughly cooked. AND THEY TASTE BETTER!! 30 minutes on medium heat is reasonable. The exception to all this is Reishi which is typically sliced, dried and used for tea.
6. Second flush: For species fruiting thru slits, just wait and more mushrooms will grow out of the same slits! Sometimes a cold shock will trigger more mushrooms to form. You can stick the block outside or in the fridge for a day or two. With Shiitake, immerse the entire block in water for 24 hours, then remove, spank and cover with reemay. GET READY!!
7. Eventually, your block will contaminate. This is normal, usually after the first or second flush. You might observe green or black mold, similar to what you would see on cheese or bread, growing on the surface of the block. At this point, put your block outside in a shady location and it will typically fruit another time or two. If it is winter time, put the block in a black plastic garbage bag and store in your basement or garage till spring. Then soak it and stick it outside. DON’T GIVE UP ON YOUR BLOCK! We have had blocks fruit a dozen or more times, each flush slightly smaller than the last.
2. Storing your bag : Store your bag at room temperature until you are ready to open it. If you want to keep your bag in storage for long periods, refrigeration is best. In general, the warmer it is the faster development occurs.
3. Fruiting your bag : When the bag is fully colonized, (completely covered in fungus), it will begin to form primordia or “pins” which are essentially baby mushrooms. At this point, either refrigerate the bag or let it fruit. Before you fruit your bag be sure that you have a fine mist sprayer . We suggest fruiting your block somewhere that you frequent often, like the kitchen or in the most humid part of the house. Bathrooms and laundry rooms are excellent!! You can set the bag on a dinner plate or in a shallow tupper ware. Just remember that it needs light. Fruiting temperatures between 50 and 75 are ideal for most species. Depending on temp and humidity, outside might be better than inside. For instance if it is cool and misty or rainy, stick the block outside on a covered porch or window sill. If it is hot and sunny or below freezing, bring it in. The higher the humidity the better . Once you cut the bag open, no turning back!! Using a terrarium : You can increase humidity by placing the bag in an UNCOVERED or Half Covered plastic storage tub containing a up to six inches of moistened perlite or potting soil. Perlite is the best. Note: do not completely cover the tub with the lid. Remember the fungus needs fresh air. Always keep the block draped in the reemay fabric and keep the reemay moist.
Follow the directions for each species below.
a. Reishi - In high co2, the reishi will form “antlers” right in the closed bag. These antlers are considered highly medicinal and are quite valuable. You can let the antler form grow in the bag as long as you like. When you do cut the bag open and fresh air enters, the form will change to the typical shelf fungus form. To harvest the antler, cut a 1 -2 inch slit in the top of the bag, slip the antler through the slit, and cut it off. Then pull the top of the bag to one side and tape it tightly down, keeping the slit exposed. Another reishi will grow out of the slit. For highest yield, Reishi can also be fruited out of the side of the bag by making two, one inch slits anywhere along the side wall of the bag on any side. Always roll and tape the plenum down when you cut slits in the bag (see photo below).
b. Shiitake- IMPORTANT! Shiitake must “brown” and “bark” INSIDE the bag! Do not open the bag until it is entirely brown. In addition the surface of the block will take on a roughened texture, called “popcorning” or “barking”. This process can take up to three months from spawning date! Once this has occurred, spank the bag! Give it ten good spanks with your hand. NO JOKE! This triggers fruiting! Next, cut off the entire bag, rinse well with cold tap water and wrap with reemay. KEEP MISTED and get ready. Shiitake fruits madly.
c. King Oyster and Black Poplar : These species benefit from the application of a casing layer . Once fully colonized, cut the top of the bag off completely, leaving about three inches of bag wall intact. Next, place a 1/2 inch layer of ordinary potting soil over the surface of the block. Keep the potting soil misted. The mushrooms will erupt thru the soil.
d. All Other Oysters, Including Elm : Require a lot of fresh air and bright light to produce normal fruits. Make up to six one inch slits, (three on each side) equal distances apart on the side wall of the bag. Then roll the top of the bag into a tube and tape it tightly and securely to the block. Make sure the rolled portion of the bag does not cover the slits. Clusters of "oysters" will grow out of the slits. Harvest and you will get more oysters out of the same slits. KEEP IT MOIST ! Oysters love water!
e. Lions Mane : Make two 1 inch slits anywhere along the bag where thick white fungus is prominent and the fruits will grow out of the slits. Don't forget to roll down the top of the bag into a tube and tape it securely (see photos below for how to roll the bag). Be sure to drape the reemay over the bag so it keeps the developing fruits moist. But watch out for the fruits growing THRU the reemay.
5. Harvesting: Gently grasp and twist the mature fruits off of the block. Try not to damage the block in the process. DO NOT CUT INTO THE BLOCK! COOK until Golden brown!! You derive little to no nutritional or medicinal value from fungi unless they are thoroughly cooked. AND THEY TASTE BETTER!! 30 minutes on medium heat is reasonable. The exception to all this is Reishi which is typically sliced, dried and used for tea.
6. Second flush: For species fruiting thru slits, just wait and more mushrooms will grow out of the same slits! Sometimes a cold shock will trigger more mushrooms to form. You can stick the block outside or in the fridge for a day or two. With Shiitake, immerse the entire block in water for 24 hours, then remove, spank and cover with reemay. GET READY!!
7. Eventually, your block will contaminate. This is normal, usually after the first or second flush. You might observe green or black mold, similar to what you would see on cheese or bread, growing on the surface of the block. At this point, put your block outside in a shady location and it will typically fruit another time or two. If it is winter time, put the block in a black plastic garbage bag and store in your basement or garage till spring. Then soak it and stick it outside. DON’T GIVE UP ON YOUR BLOCK! We have had blocks fruit a dozen or more times, each flush slightly smaller than the last.
Properly rolled bag ready to fruit thru slit cut in side wall!
Bratslavian oysters rolled and fruiting thru slits cut in the side wall of the bag! You can also see lions mane's in the backround.
For Shiitake, remove the entire bag but keep humidity very high by wrapping in reemay fabric provided with your block.
King Oysters and Black Poplars benefit from a casing layer applied to the top of the block. Note that we cut the entire top of the bag off for these species, leaving a couple of inches of sidewall intact to acommodate the casing layer. Ordinary potting soil will work fine as a casing layer. The best casing layer is a 1 to 1 mix of peat moss and vermiculite with hydrated lime added to keep the Ph on the basic side. This helps to prevent growth of the green mold
Trichoderma,
the scorn of the mushroom farmer.
Keep it up and one day you may have to take care of all these!
HERE IS A PRINTABLE VERSION OF THE GROW BAG DIRECTIONS!! JUST RIGHT CLICK THE DOCUMENT BELOW TO PRINT!